The fact that science is innovation, competitiveness, national security, and well-being is obvious even to schoolchildren. But for the creators of the natural cosmetics brand "Labrains" Līga Brūniņa, a chemist and Doctor of Economics, and Elīna Konstantinova, Doctor of Economics, science is, in the first place, - beauty, and beauty is science.
In just a few years, thanks to the unique technology and recipes developed by the company, natural dermocosmetic products for rosacea, acne-affected, sensitive, or normal skin received high evaluation at international exhibitions and won the trust of buyers in Latvia, Europe, and the Arab Emirates.
The intuitive risk guide
"Elina and I have been working together for 20 years. The work of a researcher in large environmental sustainability projects gives a valuable experience, but the idea of producing and creating added value for the national economy seemed tempting to both of us. When more than ten years ago we bought a house on Maskavas street designed by the architect Jānis Baumanis and which was the brewer Andrejs Grīnups’ place of residence and a brewery in the last century, we had lengthy discussions on what to do next. We renovated the house, respecting its historical and architectural values, and there was also an idea to restore the brewery. However, we are not the fans of this drink and we quickly realized that we were not going to be cozy brewers with beer foam on the lips," says Līga, laughing and gesturing expressively.
The contacted business consultants and experts chanted in unison - trying to jump into the field of cosmetics is hopelessly foolish, the competition is terrible, and the market is so full that it is impossible to enter. Better make supplements - easier to sell! But wise advice has a strange feature – it is often heard but rarely followed. And that is a good thing, because innovations are not created by dispassionate calculations, but by the heady cocktail of chance, intuition, and risk.
The "Labrains" founders had a very personal reason to focus on the production of cosmetics. The sensitive skin created quite a few experiences for both at school and during further studies. When a traumatic childhood experience ("I was sitting in the classroom as red as a beet after PE classes ") becomes a scientific challenge - to create a natural cream for rosacea, psoriasis, or simply sensitive skin - unique solutions arise.
A postman named… sugar
Medical cosmetics have a seemingly large offer for people with problematic skin. However, when studying the composition of premium class creams, we see that not so good synthetic ingredients that can irritate the sensitive skin are added to natural active, healing substances. It is determined by the technology of the production process. Simply put, a really good medicinal substance is usually insoluble in water or oil, so it is incorporated into ethyl alcohol, acetone, microplastic or, in the best case, glycols, and glycerine.
After the establishment of the company, thanks to two big European scientific grants, we spent three years developing a new production technology and a new recipe for natural products. We managed to find a way to trick these good insoluble substances into a sugar cone. Once on the skin, sugar dissolves, acts as a natural moisturizer and a "postman" of healing substances. We also developed a unique preservation system that contains no traditional, potentially skin-irritating, preservatives. Instead, we have a carefully developed system of prebiotics, sugars, various microbiologic agents that ensure long-term and safe storage and use of products.
We worked a lot with raw material suppliers to make them adapt to the needs of our natural technology. Surprisingly, even giant concerns with a turnover of billions, plant plantations, and greenhouses on almost all continents, respected our arguments and ensured the necessary supplies," Līga Brūniņa describes the company's path from the scientific developments to production.
In the cozy "Labrains" building, medicinal, protective, cleansing cosmetics for various skin types are produced. There are about a thousand variations for each product. We expect that at the end of the year, construction work will be completed in the adjacent building, where an automated, much more powerful production line will be installed. "Labrains" began to acquire export markets and the demand is steadily growing. "In Germany, we started with one store in Munich, but now we have a wide range of customers. German women are knowledgeable, demanding, and spoiled consumers, but they know how to appreciate natural cosmetics and the demand is growing every month. The other direction is Dubai, which to some extent is the gateway to the market of Arab countries. It is not so saturated, but in terms of demands and whims, the women of Western Europe and the East are not much different," says Līga and, after an expressive pause, adds with a smile: " Sometimes, we have to explain to customers in Dubai that a cream that protects the skin against aging is not yet a guarantee of eternal youth, but it certainly helps to better appreciate the privileges of age."
The dialogue between a hard-of-hearing giant and a little ant
An important platform for commercial activity and dialogue with buyers is the "Labrains" Instagram account. As the recognition of the unique Latvian company grows, it turns out that the opportunity to experience unpredictable and almost mystical turns in relations with the social network giant also grows. "One beautiful June evening, I suddenly started getting questions like "Where did your Instagram account go? " Soon after, a laconic "Meta" message arrived saying that my account was banned due to a violation and that I could appeal the decision within 48 hours.
Of course, we did not agree with such a decision and tried to find out what we had violated. We did not manage to get a concrete answer. A statement came from one of "Meta" departments that a third party had submitted evidence of trademark infringement. A few days later, we received a "revelation" from another department that we were producing fakes. All communication was one-way and impersonal, creating a completely helpless feeling. How can you practice your righteousness if no one even wants to listen to you?" Kristiana Tumena, the company’s Marketing Manager, describes the situation.
Probably, a giant like "Meta" would have to stoop very low to be able to hear the polite request of the "Labrains" ants to unlock the account. And it would be naive to hope for such an effort. However, a miracle happened when an employee involved in the correspondence and sympathetic to the Baltics, took the case personally and, insisting on confidentiality, advised in a private telephone conversation how to achieve the desired result. After two weeks, the account was simply unblocked, without any explanation or words of apology, of course. "It was almost a mystical experience, because all the lawyers and social media experts we asked for advice agreed that this was a unique case," adds Līga and continues: "We are well aware of the value of intellectual property, and we registered the LABRAINS trademark soon after the company was founded. It provides protection in Europe, but now we must think about how to protect ourselves when working in eastern markets or in the US."
The pillow of knowledge
In business, unlike in science, simple formulas are the most productive. If you want to make money in big markets, provide a good product, get a hefty investment cushion and - go ahead. The thicker the cushion, the higher the profit. The example of "Labrains" shows that scientific innovations enable the development of a successful business even if a fruitful money tree has not yet grown from a silver coin planted in a pot on the balcony.
"Science is disciplinary. You research, search, try until you find a solution. There are developments where you do not need to go deep down to find solutions, unlike those that we had with a micellar water, a tonic and cleansing agent for the skin, when 146 versions are developed and nothing happens, until one morning you wake up with the right formula in your head. On the other hand, there is an element of gambling and thrill that dominates in business. You must be ready to take risks and jump into the unknown, find yourself in an ice bath and jump again. However, going to the Latvian and foreign markets with a product that we ourselves have developed and know in detail and getting appreciation from customers and cooperation partners, gives an emotional uplift, the strength to continue this path. This summer we had a meeting with representatives of a respectable distributor company in Riga. When discussing our possible collaboration, they mentioned that we have a high level of ambition. Without thinking much, I answered that it is justified, because we are the best in the world in our segment! The guests kept silent, but the next day one of them started the meeting with the words - I thought all night about what you said yesterday... and you know, you are right!